August 15

Winds from the north had been predicted in the 1-5mph range. This sounded quite tame and we were not hesitant to put in at VT Fish and Wildlife’s ramp on Converse Bay, a mile south of the unfriendly place where we had taken out five days ago. The water was flat. We had to wash off the mud that coated everything on our trailer after driving through the rain the night before. This took an hour and our departure time was delayed much too long.  Rowing out of Converse bay to join the route where we had come north was calm and protected.  Then as we rounded the point to head north toward Burlington I found myself rowing into a pretty strong headwind that had had time to build up some sizable waves.  Rowing straight into it was OK in that we were still averaging 4 mph but it was taking a toll on my hands since the rough water forces one to grip the oar handle tighter. I was, for the first time on this trip, starting to feel some blisters developing. 

Soon we crossed the bow of the ferry from Essex, NY. I could feel that its captain was somewhat concerned about our proximity but I was confident that I had plenty of room to spare. I took twenty strokes for power and we had ample clearance.

After rowing 5 miles without a rest we pulled into the shelter of Quaker Smith point where Heather had seen a log we could hold onto and have a rest. She tied us up in this calm, restful place and I lay back on my pile of boat cushions and PFDs for a comfortable nap. All such rests come to an end, however. 

As we reentered the upwind struggle I could see the hazy shape of Juniper Island, just off the opening to Burlington Bay. This was my new destination. While rowing sometimes I judge my distance by the amount of haze or smog between me and my destination or the landmark I have passed. I enjoy seeing these landmarks passed disappear in this haze. It is almost as satisfying as seeing them sink below the horizon as some of the bridges I had passed in Florida did when I rowed away from them. If I were looking ahead I would probably be motivated by them rising up from the horizon.

In about 11 miles we passed Juniper ledge and I could now see the Burlington waterfront.

Turning slightly Eastward I was no longer rowing straight into the wind. Larger waves were regularly contributing a gallon or two to our bilge. Heather sat there with the bailing pump between her knees trying to keep ahead of it. She did admirably and our confidence in what size waves this boat could handle was rising considerably. I had looked at water like this before and judged that it would swamp us quickly. We were doing just fine in 1-foot waves. Just a note to those who are not familiar with wave measurement: 1-foot waves are those that have crests 1 foot above the water level when calm. This means that there is a 2 foot difference between crest and trough. The height of our gunwale in the middle of our boat is about six inches but because the boat’s curvature with higher clearance at both ends we seem to be able to ride through the waves without water coming in until they reach about 2 feet.

The last three miles into Burlington Bay had been exhausting because each stroke was different. Waves and wakes of varying sizes and directions made me adjust each stroke separately. There was none of the repetitive rhythm of the days on the canal and the calm miles on the narrow lower end of the lake where lightly gripped oar handles and the  flat water with my line of dwindling puddles off the stern would hypnotize me into a relaxed state.  There had been no chance for such relaxation during the entire 15.4 miles of this day and the mileage did not take into account a 10-15 mph wind that would have caused us to drift back at least 6 miles if I had not been rowing! So I think this was one of the longer rows of this trip and I was much relieved to pass behind the seawall in Burlington and enter calm waters passing the moored yachts, dinner cruise ships and ferries. As we approached the ramp we saw David Mullin of Green Mt. Habitat get out of his minivan and come down to meet us. Soon a photographer named Glenn from the Burlington Free Press arrived saying he had caught us coming in. After a few questions and discussion with David we took the boat out and David took me back to the Converse Bay access point.

Passing the road out to Cedar Beach where we had been given our only unwelcome of the trip I had to wonder if they were enjoying their privacy or just their pride of ownership.

When I returned to pick up Heather I noticed a spout for a hose connection and took the opportunity to hose off the mud from the night before that had coated our boat trailer. It felt good to spray clean water on myself as well. We have not had a day when the temperature had not reached the mid eighties. My brown leathery skin is proof.

We decided that the forecast of South winds the next day meant we should swap sides of the lake and restart in Fort Douglass, NY to follow the wind up to Plattsburgh. So we went to eat dinner at the Icehouse next to the ferry dock. This was pleasant and gave us a view of the harbor. At about 6:30 we pulled into the ferry line parking lot and were soon approached by a very healthy and strong looking lady on a bicycle that asked if she had seen us this morning down by the Essex ferry. It soon turned out that she was the captain of the ferry we had crossed in front of. She said she had turn off her course a little but that she had not been concerned. We talked to Lea Coggio for the hour we waited for the ferry and it turned out she had some very similar interests. She was a kayaker, cyclist, world traveler and most of all an athlete. She said she might join us on the water in her kayak later in the week. I fully expect that she will! And with her upper body strength she will probably keep up with ease.

The ferry came. We said goodbye to Lea and left VT for Port Kent at 7:30 to sail into a beautiful sunset. Soon after arriving we had parked for the night at the Bolton Acres Campground, taken a shower and snuggled into the back of our Element.